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RE: Class B-plus
I personally think most B+ motorhomes should be called " C Minus ". They are standard class C's, but with the front cab-over bunk replaced with a fiberglass aero-dynamic cap.
Our Phoenix Cruiser is what I think is more representing of a B+. It is a scaled down class C. The height to the top of the a/c is 9'-10", and it's width is 7'-9". Lengths do vary by floorplan.
Our model 2350 is only 23'-8" in over-all length. That helps define it as a class B+. But Phoenix USA has models as long as 29'-8", which is right there with some of the bigger class C's.
C-minus?
You'll never get a job in the marketing department. :)
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Dakzuki
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05/13/08 12:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Hood Guard Question
Mine came with one. They will help protect what is directly behind them but not much else. Many of them actually rub the paint of the hood due to stupid design.
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Dakzuki
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05/13/08 09:19am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Using a dedicated hose for the Black Tank Flush?
I always use different hoses for those functions. I don't even keep them near each other in the rig. The drinking water grade stuff has its own storage separate from anything "dirty". I also wear rubber gloves when handling the dookie gear and wash my hands afterwards.
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Dakzuki
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05/10/08 11:56am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Important Tools To Carry On Board Motorhome...
For those of you who bring sockets along, what sizes do you have? Are newer rigs mostly metric or do you still need SAE. I don't have an RV yet, still shopping, but the kids like to get me tools for fathers day and I need new sockets.
There's some "oddball" sizes you might want too.....like the water heater bung on mine. It's pretty big. I just keep that socket in the RV as I do with some other tools that live in it all the time like the hubcap remover/hammer.
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Dakzuki
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05/10/08 11:48am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Important Tools To Carry On Board Motorhome...
Think swap meets and eBay. :p I did.
Alternately, look into a Power Tank, maybe?
I'm doin' just fine with a dinky cheap $50 compressor (ebay) as emergency air. If I was using one a lot I'd get an off road type one and mount it under the rig with a tank.....and then get air horns to "advise" those that cut me off not to do it again.
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Dakzuki
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05/10/08 11:39am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Wind noise as I drive
Another way to chase the location of the noise is to listen through a piece of hose. With one end at your ear and moving the other around the door you may be able to pinpoint the location. It might be a bit quicker than than moving tape around. This is an old mechanic's trick.
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Dakzuki
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05/10/08 11:17am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Important Tools To Carry On Board Motorhome...
Currie and Old Man Emu have 12V compressors that will inflate a tire to 100+psi. The Curries are tough enough the military uses them.
Big $$$
If I could afford a Unicat or Earthroamer that might be on the list.
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Dakzuki
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05/09/08 10:37pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Added Bilstein Shocks-WOW
Which is better: Air shocks where I can adjust the pressure myself or gas shocks?
Air shocks and gas shocks are different animals. Gas (nitrogen) in gas shocks is to minimize foaming. It essentially keeps the fluid (oil) under pressure.
Air shocks are a combination of a damper and lifting device. They essentially combine the damping of the shock and an air bag's ability to add to the springs' ability.
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Dakzuki
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05/09/08 08:27pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: "Alternative Fuel Conversion?"
I've occasionally lurked on a British motorhome forum - their motorhomes are usually on a Fiat, Peugeot or other chassis with diesel engines that are 2.5L or less. They are saying they're getting over 20 mpg. But their rigs are tiny by our standards, and it sounds like they're really grunting going up hills.
They cope with their conditions and what they have.....
Correct. They have serious performance issues they trade for fuel economy. If you get caught behind an RV in Europe (my experience is in the UK) you are in a world of hurt. The real fun ones are the "caravans" (camper trailer) towed behind their cars which invariably are grossly underpowered for the task at hand. The RVs are very light compared to ours to....no big tanks, cassette toilets, etc.
You can get an idea of "caravans" here if you are a Top Gear fan (or want to be): http://youtube.com/watch?v=0GZRmzuiig8
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Dakzuki
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05/09/08 07:27pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Question about Big Foot pricing.....
My brother/sister in law bought a Bigfoot. They intend to use it until the wheels fall off. Witht he amount of time they spend in it skiing I do not doubt it. They had other used RVs and gradually scaled up as finances allowed. Now they are "there" and need to go no further.
It is not just basic design/build quality in an RV but the quality of components they use and bells/whistles that they also have. It all adds up.
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Dakzuki
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05/09/08 02:53pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Paint rusty wheel hubs
Another vote for Rustoleum. Guess what the Suzuki in my sig is painted with?
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Dakzuki
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05/09/08 02:46pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Important Tools To Carry On Board Motorhome...
A 12 volt compressor is not very effective for motorhome tires. I carry an small 120 volt one that has the capacity to inflate up to 150 pounds.
n5tc
I had that concern when I bought mine so I tested it. Compressor inflates my tires just fine BUT I'm only a 10.5k GVW machine. I have not tested it beyond 70 something PSI.
I don't always have AC power with me so 12V is a requirement.....as is small size due to the size of my MH. If I had AC (and a bigger truck) I'd take a little Craftsman one I use to inflate tires at home. It's the tiny one they sell that comes with a nail gun. Goes on sale for $150 or so and it's 100% duty cycle unlike most 12V units.
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Dakzuki
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05/08/08 12:25pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Best website to sell used Class C
Craigslist is free. I'd use it no matter which other ones you choose.
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Dakzuki
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05/07/08 04:15pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Crashing your RV or rather, DON"T!!!
I am sorry that both drivers lost their lives, and please do NOT consider this to be a flame.
I DO feel, that when ever I hear the statement " the brakes failed", could be they did not, but it took MORE stopping time becase of the high rate of speed going down an incline.
I have this on the back of my motor home:
The article says the rig crashed because of “brake-fade” ... I wonder why the guy didn't just shut the key off to stop the coach? :R
"Brake fade" is when your brakes become ineffective due to heat buildup. They just overheat and no longer work. You have plenty of pedal pressure available but no effect.
The other less common one is brake fluid boiling. This causes your pedal to go spongy or go to the floor with no effect when things get very hot. Brake fluid absorbs water (from the atmosphere) and with time its boiling point will get lower due to the water absorbed.
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Dakzuki
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05/07/08 04:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Newby generator oil change question
The spline drive? Most interesting.
First I've ever seen that one.
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Dakzuki
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05/04/08 10:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Next Battery Chargning question
OK I finally figured this out (after I put a better system in my machine). I paid the big bucks for the Ford manuals and the answer is contained inside. Ford has a cross connect relay on mine (1994 E350) to charge the second battery. The relay is get this.......under the truck battery tray (somewhere)!!! I still have yet to figure out access (behind left headlight?) to it but I no longer really care with the battery combiner I put in (Yandina 150).
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Dakzuki
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05/04/08 07:50pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Important Tools To Carry On Board Motorhome...
Excellent thread. Many very good ideas. People think I'm wierd but I carry the old belts too....along with an old wiper blade when I have one (yes, I've had those fail).
I also carry manuals for the vehicle and appliances. Oddball special tools that are unique to the RV. Socket for the water heater plug and the infamous square drive screwdrivers.
I also have a hatchet with a hammer back end on it, axe, and bow saw.
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Dakzuki
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05/04/08 07:05pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Newby generator oil change question
Are we talking torx here?
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/84213.jpg
They are being found in more and more places. I even have them on my bicycles.
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Dakzuki
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05/03/08 01:13pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ft-lbs
I would agree that 220 is a typo. According to the chart at
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
you can see that the strongest bolt is Grade 8. The studs on cars and Light Trucks are going to be in the grade 6 to Grade 8 range.
With many lug nuts being oiled and not really "dry" the spec is 130 Ft-Lb MAX for Gr8
If you apply 220 and don't break anything you have probably damaged the studs and they should all be replaced.
Do you have an address for the publisher that says 220? They may have a potential liability problem in my non-lawyer opinion.
I have had bad information from a Haynes manual before (Honda timing belt change). After that I quit using aftermarket manuals and stuck with factory ones. I just bought the Ford set that applies to my RV. Talk about sticker shock. Ouch.
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Dakzuki
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05/03/08 12:08pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire change and inflation on the highway
I've done it. Not particularly fun.
One piece of advice I learned even if one is calling for help. My brother had roadside service change a wheel for him at camp. They however, didn't have air and his spare was low. Fortunately somebody else (my dad) had a small emergency compressor/inflator. Note to all. Carry air.
I would highly advise even if you are having somebody else do the work have a wrench that fits your lugs aboard and a little compressor/inflator. Mr Dittmer's big pipe doesn't take up much room either. I also carry an inexpensive (but good enough for wheels) bending bar type torque wrench.
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Dakzuki
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05/03/08 12:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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